The life of a critic is simple in many ways, we risk little and have power over those who offer their work and service to our judgment.
We thrive on negative reviews, which are fun to write and read, but the sad truth we must face is that in the grand order of things, any garbage has more meaning than our criticism lets on.
But sometimes the critic does take a risk every time he discovers and defends something new, the world is usually cruel to new talent; new creations, the new, need friends.
Last night I experienced something new; an extraordinary dinner from a unique and unexpected source. To say only that the food and its creator have challenged my prejudices about good cooking would understate reality; They have touched me deeply.
In the past I have never hidden my disdain for Chef Gusteau's famous motto: Anyone can cook. But I finally realize what he really meant; Not everyone can become a great artist, but a great artist can come from anywhere.
It is difficult to imagine a more humble origin than that of the genius who now cooks at Gusteau's restaurant and who, in this critic's opinion, is nothing less than the best chef in France. I'll be back to Gusteau's hungry soon!