Found the solution how to connect to itch without VPN
Add to hosts file this:
173.255.209.84 itch.io
I don't know how safe it is and etc., but it worked to me
(solution was found somewhere in dephts of the internet)
At this time (31/05/24, ~18:00-18:30 MSK) i have only 2 ways: VPN or this solution. Nothing else helped
UPD (01/06/24 ~12:00 MSK)
It seems to be working only with main itch web-page. You can't enter the game page with this method