I'm glad you're enjoying this one as well ;)
You should be able to pan on both maps using the left thumbstick or the D-pad (as you move your little cursor). Is it not working on your side?
The headphones can be used from the inventory menu. I should definitely add a prompt to make it more obvious.
I'm also thinking of adding markers on your map so you know how close you are to your objectives (similar to how Hollow Knight has markers for the Dreamers and the Black Egg Temple, nothing more). This way you would know you still have some exploring to do once you enter the tower.
Thank you for the feedback! :)