One thing I was able to do is edit package.json to change the starting size of the window to 1920x1080 (my monitor's native res). This gives me a 3x scaled (1440x810), centered view when the window is maximized, which while not ideal is just about good enough to be playable. That result is obviously pretty different from what you'd get setting the resolution from within the game's code, but maybe that's a starting point for troubleshooting if more players report this issue. (and if not, great!)
Thanks so much for the help troubleshooting!